Posts Tagged ‘Powder’

Runway Beauty: 3D Nails and White Eyeliner at The Blonds A/W 2015

February 19th, 2015

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At The Blonds A/W 2015, over-the-top 3D nails were paired with a relatively stripped down makeup look of white eyeliner and nude, contoured faces.

White eyeliner at The Blonds A/W 2015
Makeup: Kabuki for M·A·C Cosmetics
Nails: CND

To create “a tuxedo effect”, Kabuki first created a black cat eye with M·A·C PRO Creme Liner then added M·A·C PRO Pure White Acrylic Paint above it. He left the lashes bare with no mascara or faux lashes so the line stayed clean and sharp. The rest of the face was kept toned down with Matchmaster SPF 15 Foundation set with Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder, M·A·C PRO Bone Beige Sculpting Powder under the cheekbones softened with M·A·C PRO Accentuate Shaping Powder, and an ultra nude lip, courtesy of Boldly Bare Lip Pencil, Siss, Fleshpot and Tanarama Lipsticks.

To create the unique 3D nails on the models, the CND Design Lab Team handcrafted the nails and their dramatic embellishments with CND® Liquid & Powder and BRISA® Gel. Then, layers of high-shine color were applied using CND® SHELLAC® brand 14+ day nail color and VINYLUX® Weekly Polish, using innovative techniques to create matte suede texture. Accented with gold chrome accessories, textural elements and layering created serious dimension, while couture camouflage in industrial tones were embellished with hand-crafted molten paillettes. The bold 3D designs, which took a total of over 900 combined hours to create, were pierced, draped, laced, torn and burnt, perfectly accessorizing The Blonds’ theatrical collection.

3D Nail art at The Blonds A/W 2015
The Blonds A/W 2015 runway nails by CND
The Blonds A/W 2015 runway makeup and nails
The Blonds A/W 2015 runway beauty
White eyeliner with nude lips at The Blonds A/W 2015

Images: Courtesy of CND and M·A·C Cosmetics.

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The Makeup Show Chicago 2014 Recap

June 10th, 2014

Celebrity Makeup News and Blogs:

After 2 days of immense fun, learning and shopping, The Makeup Show Chicago 2014 has finally come to a wrap! Read on for a brief recap of some of my favorite moments from this year!

Deconstructing Artistry: Techniques for Unconventional Beauty by OCC

Deconstructing Artistry: Techniques for Unconventional Beauty by OCC

At Deconstructing Artistry: Techniques for Unconventional Beauty, Founder of Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics David Klasfeld teamed up with Brand Manager & Director of Makeup Artistry Courtney Tichman to create 2 powerful, organic looks. The duo also show us a few non-traditional ways to use OCC’s iconic Lip Tars, including using the Clear one as a primer on the eyes and the Metallic formula as a blush.

OCC's David Klasfeld working his magic on the model

OCC’s David Klasfeld working his magic on the model

Next, I sat in at the How To Create A Multi-Dimensional Smoky Eye seminar by NARS Cosmetics artist Justin Heslop. Using the latest Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow, a wet/dry shadow that made its debut at the show, Justin created a gorgeous smoky eye look and shared with us a few ways to nail Francois Nars’ signature makeup style: 1) Always do the complexion – primer, foundation, concealer and set with powder – before the eyes. 2) Lay out the basic shape of the smoky eye with shadows then use Light Reflecting Loose Setting Powder to diffuse the edges and sweep away any shadow fallout. 3) Add in a bit of blush on the crease then blend towards the temple to make the smoky eye less disconnected from the rest of the face.

How To Create A Multi-Dimensional Smoky Eye by Justin Heslop for NARS

How To Create A Multi-Dimensional Smoky Eye by Justin Heslop for NARS

At Creating Celebrity Style, top notch celebrity makeup artist Pati Dubroff, who has a long line of A-list clients including Naomi Watts, Natalie Portman, Kate Bosworth, Eva Mendes and more, shared with us a few of her must-haves and tricks. Pati pointed out that the key to nailing red carpet makeup is to work with the stylist and create makeup that complements, not distract. Instead of using powder, Pati is big on priming and loves a mattifying primer in the center of the face and an luminizing one on the sides. Some of her faves? L’oreal RevitaLift Miracle Blur, Kiehl’s Micro-Blur Skin Perfector and NARS Light Optimizing Primer Broad Spectrum SPF 15 (also one of my HGs!) She is also a HUGE fan of SUQQU Foundation (a Japanese line only available in the UK and Asia) and uses 2 shades on her clients – a lighter one in the center and a darker one on the sides, which helps to contour.

Creating Celebrity Style by Pati Dubroff

Creating Celebrity Style by Pati Dubroff

Then at the Runway Trends seminar, MAC Senior Artist Victor Cembellin, whom I’ve had the pleasure of meeting at the MAC PRO Sculpting The Face Master Class, gave us the low down on the hottest trends from the Spring/Summer 2014 runways. 1) Day Glow is all about “raw” or as the everyday customer calls it, “real” skin 2) CC-Through Colour involves the use of color (lilac and peaches) but in washes for a “real” effect 3) Light FX, is the use of light and white, as seen at various shows I attended including Altuzarra and 4) The New Eye-Deal, which involves making classic beauty statements like block eyeliner but in a modern, never-before-seen way. The end result? An insanely beautiful yet modern runway look.

S/S 2014 Runway Trends by MAC Senior Artist Victor Cembellin

S/S 2014 Runway Trends MAC Senior Artist Victor Cembellin

Let’s not forget Make Up For Ever. During Color Explosion: From Beauty to High Fashion, Make Up For Ever educator Jessie Powers demonstrated how to create a vibrant eye look using Make Up For Ever Flash Color Palette. Jessie stressed the importance of building a classic base before working with color and to always start out sheer when working with creams and setting with a powder – be it eyeshadow, blush or even loose powder – to prevent creasing.

Color Explosion: From Beauty to High Fashion by Jessie Powers

And lastly, a few more highlights from the show.

Makeup demo by Kanesha Perry for Stila Cosmetics

Model getting blinged up at Oliv Ares Haus of Glam

Makeup Demo by Smashbox’s Lori Taylor

Temptu showcasing its best – airbrush!

Body painting by Nigel Beauty

Makeup demo by Make Up First

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Is more expensive eye shadow really different?

June 6th, 2014

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Mamasim asks…Can the processes (methods) as opposed to ingredients, of producing a beauty product be different enough to justify the price differences in the same product type? A makeup artist I like commented in a tutorial that the reason she liked Dior eyeshadows is they have a wonderful texture. She said that when she asked a cosmetic chemist why they said it was because during its production the product was held at the ‘fat combining’ stage for slightly longer than is the norm… (???) I’m interested in knowing if high end companies use more involved methods and this is a reason why their products can be more expensive?

The Beauty Brains respond:

The only unusual “fat combining” process that I’m aware of is the way Perry eats a hamburger and french fries. He eats ALL the fries first THEN he eats the burger.  Isn’t it normal to intersperse bites of the burger with the fries so you can enjoy the flavor of both?  I mean you wouldn’t eat your entire bag of potato chips and THEN eat your ham sandwich, would you? Sheesh! But I digress…

Processing can impact product cost

While we stress the importance of looking at ingredients to understand the quality of a product, there are situations where the ingredients don’t tell the full story. Sometimes HOW the ingredients are put together can be tremendously important to the quality of the finished product. You don’t see this in simple mixtures, like shampoos, but you do see it on more complex products like pressed powders. Case in point: a recent article in Cosmetics & Toiletries revealed that the quality of a powder cosmetic products depends in part on how the powders are pulverized.

The powders used in cosmetics can form agglomerates, or clumps. These clumps prevent the powder from having a smooth application. To avoid these clumps powders are processed to break them into tiny particles. This is commonly done using a piece of equipment called a “Hammer Mill” which basically slams metal hammers against the powder’s surface to break the pieces apart. Most manufacturers used to this type of equipment.

However a more advanced process, known as “Jet Milling,” can break the particles into even smaller sizes and make them more spherical.

Not surprisingly Jet Mills cost more, and not as readily available, as Hammer Mills. That means if a company wants to make a higher quality powder they either have to invest in more expensive equipment or they have to use a contract manufacturer which owns this specialized grinder. In either case the use of jet milling to create a softer feeling product results in an increased price. Therefore it’s unlikely you’ll see this used in bargain products.

So the answer is yes, process can impact cost.


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Dramatic Lips and 3D Nails at The Blonds A/W ’14

February 16th, 2014

Celebrity Makeup News and Blogs:

Inspired by the feminine villains of classic comic books, the look at The Blonds A/W ’14 was all about dramatic lips, bold brows and out-there nails.

The Blonds A/W '14 runway beauty
Makeup: Kabuki for MAC Cosmetics
Nails: CND

* Mineralize Charged Water Moisture Gel – applied with 191 Foundation Brush to instantly hydrate and refresh
* Fast Response Eye Cream – patted around the eye area to smooth and revitalize skin
* PRO Longwear Concealer – used as a foundation and applied with 191 Foundation Brush to even and perfect, the pushed into the lower lashline to brighten eyes with 195 Concealer Brush
* PRO Performance Sponge – used to blend, creating a flawless matte skin to finish
* Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder – swept over the skin with 116 Blush Brush to polish and set * M·A·C PRO Taupe Powder Blush – blended under cheekbones with 116 Blush Brush to sculpt and contour
* Fun Ending Powder Blush (available Fall/Winter 2014) – blended over cheeks to brighten and blanace skin

Eyes – Look 1
* Bare Canvas Paint – blended over the eyelid as a base with 242 Shade Brush
* M·A·C PRO Black Creme Liner – drawn through the upper lashline to create a feline shaped liner
* 36 Lash – applied to the uppwer lashes and defined with Haute & Naughty Black Mascara to perfect
* Brows were blanked out with Studio Finish Concealer and replaced with custom paper cut outs for a built-in attitude, using Duo Adhesive

Eyes – Look 2 (3 models received cat-eye eyelids)
* M·A·C PRO Landscape Green Chromaline – blended through the crease of the eye to contour, using 217 Blending Brush
* M·A·C PRO Pure White Chromaline – buffed onto the eyelid using using 217 Blending Brush for a creamy white highlight

* Designer Purple Pearlglide Intense Eyeliner – used to create an intimidating definition to lips and rich base
* Fuchsia and Madly Magenta Pigments – mixed together and blended out through the center of the lip for a “sinister” mouth

23 unique nail designs that were sharp, strong, bold and intricate with extreme and pointed shapes were created for the show. CND’s artists handcrafted the nails and their dramatic embellishments with Retention+TM Liquid & Powder and BrisaTM Gel. Then, layers of high-shine color were applied using CND ShellacTM and VINYLUXTM. The looks were finalized with unique embellishments, including jagged vintage jewels, Swarovski crystals, chains, pearls, leather, glitter, foil, velvet and more for a rich seductive finish.

3D nail art by CND at The Blonds A/W '14
The Blonds A/W '14 nail art

Images: Courtesy of CND.

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Celebrity Makeup Breakdown: Camilla Belle at 2013 LACMA Art + Film Gala

November 7th, 2013

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The gorgeous Camilla Belle looked chic as ever spotting some new bangs and plum lipstick at the 2013 LACMA Art + Film Gala. Keep reading to see how Celebrity Makeup Artist Kinzee Kubek created the look!

how to get Camilla Belle's makeup look at 2013 LACMA Art + Film Gala
“Skin, is so important! You always want to start with a clean, blank canvas, that’s well hydrated. Not only does it bring the skin to life, but it also helps maintain the integrity of the makeup. So before I applied any color, I first moisturized Camilla’s skin with a light veil of Dr. Perricone Advanced Face Firming Activator. First I applied Laura Mercier Concealer to the under eye, in the color SC-1. Then, with a foundation brush, I built up an even base of Armani Luminous Silk Foundation, in the color, 5.75. After applying both the concealer and foundation, with a wet beauty blender sponge, I went back and gently blended the makeup so that there was a seamless even finish.

For eyes, I applied a light layer of Marc Jacobs eyeshadow (a light color), from the Style Eye-Con #7 Plush Shadow Palette. A sleek, slightly winged out liquid liner, finished the eye. For that I used Chanel, Ecriture de Chanel Automatic Liquid Eyeliner in Black. To give Camilla a slight definition to her naturally beautiful bone structure, I applied Kevin Aucoin sculpting powder, to subtly contour her cheekbones. On the apples of the cheeks, I applied Chanel Powder Blush in the color 68 Rose Ecrin. For her lip color, I chose a new lipstick from the Fall 2013 NARS collection, which is a matte lipstick, in the color La Paz.

Finishing off with final touches, I applied two layers of Armani Eyes To Kill mascara, in black. Then on the face, just a few dots of Smashbox photo op to highlight her where the light catches. This was applied to the top of her cheekbones. And last but not least, the powder I chose to use was from Make Up For Ever, called HD powder (make sure to thoroughly blend this powder, or it’ll show up on camera). And voila! That’s the look.”

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