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Post image for Does Pressed Powder Makeup Always Contain Synthetic Ingredients?

February is link love month!  We’re taking questions from other bloggers and encouraging you to check out their blogs. Today’s question is from Mary at Pure Healthy Makeup. Stop by and say hello! 

Mary asks: Is is possible to make pressed makeup without using any synthetics?

The Right Brain responds:

Rather than re-opened the debate on natural vs synthetic, I’ll try to address your question as it applies specifically to powdered makeup.

Loose powder needs fewer ingredients

One can certainly make the case that certain brands of so-called mineral makeup are among the most “natural” of cosmetic products. For example, Mineral Hygenics only contains a few powders which are all derived from crushed rocks (more or less.) This kind of product is relatively easy to formulate using only mineral (ie “natural”) ingredients because it’s just a simple blend of powders.

Pressed powder is more complex

Pressed powders, on the other hand, are much more complex. In order for the powders to stay compressed they need some kind of binding oil. And for those oils to mix with the powders they may require a surfactant to lower the surface tension. And the pressed powders have to spread easily across your skin so they may require emollients to provide slip. And these surfactants and binders and emollients may require antioxidants to prevent rancidity. And, since pressed powders have a surface that comes in contact with fingers and makeup brushes, they are more likely to require preservatives than loose powders. And…well you get the idea.

The more ingredients that a formula requires, the more difficult it becomes to source ingredients that everyone will agree are “natural.” And although natural alternatives may be available, they may not work as well as the nasty old “synthetic” chemicals. This is particluarly true of preservatives and of many surfactants.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

It’s not impossible to formulate a pressed powder without  ”synthetics” but the requirements of the formula make it much more difficult.

Image credit: Beautyiswithin.

Do YOU know of a pressed powder that made of only natural ingredients? Leave a comment and share your natural knowledge with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

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Post image for Look At The Label: Clinique Lid Smoothie

Palacinka Beauty is a little freaked out by cooling makeup but is starting to warm up to the idea of Clinique Lid Smoothies. What makes this eye make up feel so cool? Let’s look at the label to find out.

Ingredients

Water
Solvent.

Dimethicone
Silicone to give lids a smooth feel.

Isododecane
A volatile hydrocarbon, that means it will  evaporate and make your eyelids feel cooler. (I had expected to see some kind of menthol derivative to give a cooling effect but that’s not a good idea to use around the eyes – this is a much better solution.)

Methyl Trimethicone
Silicone based emulsifier.

Trimethylsiloxyslicate, HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Spreading agents.

Polysilicone-11
Slip and smooth agent.

Glycerin
Another humectant.

Magneseum Myristate
Emulsifier.

Copernicia Cerifera

Wax, Silica,Microcrystalline wax
Gives the product body and controls spreadability. 

Butylene Glycol
Humectant.

PEG-10 Dimethicone
Emulsifier/silicone for slip and smooth feel. 

Cucumber fruit extract
Hey, you put cucumber slices on your eyes to reduce puffiness so this extract must help keep your lids smooth, right? Wrong! 

Carrot Root Extract, Spinach leaf extract, Broccoli Extract, Blueberry Fruit Extract
Other useless extracts that look good on the label.

Caffeine
Keeps your eyelids stimulated so you don’t fall asleep. Just kidding, this extract really does nothing. 

Aloe Barbadenisis Leaf Water
Looks good on the label.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Supposedly relaxes muscle contractions to help prevent wrinkle formation.

Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer
Gives the product body and feel. 

Ozokerite
Wax thickener.

Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Hexyl Laurate
Emulsifiers.

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Emulsifier/silicone for slip and smooth feel. 

Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, may help protect the product but won’t do much for your skin.

Dipropylene Glycol
Humectant, keeps the product from drying out.

Sodium Chloride
Thickener.

Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol
Preservatives.

Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Bismuth Oxychloride
Opacifier to help the cover skin better and sparkly bits to make it shimmer.

Iron Oxides
Colorant (Iron Oxides are one of the few colorants approved for use around the eye.)

Image credit: Amazon.com

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Today’s post is written by Debra Jaliman, MD, author of Skin Rules:  Trade Secrets from a Top New York Dermatologist.  

Every day I treat rosacea. It’s probably one of the most common skin conditions that dermatologists see. New patients either walk in with bright red faces or with caked-on makeup that still manages to do a poor job of concealment. The good news is that nowadays, nobody has to walk around with a scarlet face, since there is an ever-growing number of effective treatment options.

First, though, a prolonged question-and-answer period with your doctor should take place. The first thing your dermatologist will ask about is your diet. Food and drink are usually the prime triggers in rosacea. Everybody is different and so are rosacea triggers, but here is a list of the most common offenders:

  • Spicy foods
  • Piping hot beverages — better get used to drinking soups at a cooler temperature.
  • Caffeine — coffee, tea and, I’m afraid, chocolate.
  • Citrus fruits
  • Tomatoes (including ketchup)
  • Red wine and beer. White wine appears to be less of a problem.
  • Soy sauce and miso
  • Steam — saunas and very hot, prolonged showers and baths are not good.
  • Excessive niacin (vitamin B3) consumption which leads to skin flushing. Low doses or
    taking the non-flushing type of niacin should not cause problems.
  • Sun exposure
  • Wind
  • Extremes in temperature — very hot weather and very cold weather make rosacea worse, as anybody who has a scarlet nose in winter knows.

As is obvious from the last two items, protecting the skin from the elements is essential. But you have to do it the right way — chemical sunscreens will only make rosacea worse. I recommend sunscreens with zinc oxide, which is both anti-inflammatory and provides good, broad-spectrum protection. Make sure it is SPF 30 or higher and slather it on every single day, even on overcast days.

Skincare products can also exacerbate rosacea. Use the mildest cleanser you can find. Avoid products with glycolic or salicylic acid. Stay away from makeup with silicone-based ingredients, such as dimethicone, which can clog pores and make rosacea bumps worse.

Dermatologists have a wide arsenal of weapons against rosacea. The first line of attack is with topical products. In my practice, I first treat the inflammation and dryness, using creams and serums with resveratrol, green tea and hyaluronic acid. Topical antibiotics, such as metronidazole, kill bacteria on the skin surface and lessen inflammation, as can prescription-strength azelaic acid. With severe cases, oral antibiotics can be used. The FDA recently approved the use of doxycycline in very small doses to treat inflammation in rosacea patients; sometimes the course of low-dose antibiotics can go on for months. Most people seem to tolerate it well, but others will have side effects, in which case topical antibiotics, light therapy and lasers are the fall-back answers.

Light therapy can have amazing results. I use a combination of red, infra-red and blue light, typically in sessions lasting between 30 minutes and an hour. The procedure is completely painless and most patients begin to see an improvement after the first session or two.

The next step is using lasers, which are more expensive than light therapy, but worth it. In my practice I use the Genesis laser to reduce background redness. My patients tell me it feels like warm water is being applied and actually seem to find it relaxing. Skin may look pink right after treatment, but that fades in a few minutes. I usually recommend three to six treatments, although most patients see a big difference by the third treatment.

Broken blood vessels that look like red spider webs are common in rosacea patients. The CoolGlide laser is used to seal off the vessels in one to three treatments, four weeks apart. It’s not the pleasant experience of the Genesis laser, but the discomfort is minimal and any redness from the treatment is gone in twenty minutes.

Once rosacea has been brought under control, most patients report they find it easy to avoid their triggers. “I finally feel in control of my skin,” one of them told me recently.

© 2011 Debra Jaliman, MD, author of Skin Rules: Trade Secrets from a Top New York Dermatologist

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Post image for Makeup Remover Secret: 5 Reasons To Use Baby Wipes!

Carmen’s question… I realize this is an icky revelation — but I frequently find myself too pooped at the end of the evening to properly wash my face. Sometimes I go to bed with my makeup still on, and I know that’s not good. I’m considering buying face wipes to at least take some of the grunge off before plunging into bed. But what about just using baby wipes? Aren’t they basically the same thing? They’re certainly cheaper!

The Right Brain’s pampered response:
Yes, Carmen, you can use baby wipes to remove makeup. Here are 5 things to think about before you baby your face:

1. Cost

Wow, what a difference! The cost of an average Baby Wipe = 5.5 cents each. Cost of an average Make Up Remover = 33 cents each

(For baby products we used the average cost of Tushies, Huggies, 7th Generation, and Pampers. For facial wipes we used Almay, Neutrogena, Chorane, and Comodynes facial wipes. Anyway you slice it, “baby” is cheaper.)

2. Cleansing ingredients

All the formulas we looked at (both baby and make up) use mild cleansers – nary a sulfate in sight. However, keep in mind that baby wipes are not built to remove the kind of heavy, waxy buildup you get with lipstick or some waterproof mascaras. (Then again, not everyone wears water proof mascara. Just to be safe, if you plan on removing eye make up, you should check with the manufacturer.) Based on looking at the formulas, it appears that the cleansing power varies by brand. Tushies, for example, appears to be very light cleansing.

3. Quality of the cloth

The texture of facial cloths and baby wipes are similar, but you might find the baby wipes are a bit big for facial use. (As with so many things in life, size does matter.) But that’s ok, folding isn’t against the law. Also, depending on the brand, you might find the baby wipes are too wet for your face.

4. Safe for skin

A hallmark of any good make up (or make up remover) is that it’s proven to be noncomedogenic. In other words, it doesn’t cause comedones, or black heads. We’ve never seen a baby wipe that makes this claim but it’s probably not a big deal. Oils are the types of ingredients that usually cause comedones and the baby wipe formulas we looked at don’t seem to contain a lot of those kind of ingredients.

5. Fragrance

If you use baby wipes to clean your face, you’ll probably find yourself smelling like baby lotion. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing, especially if you’re trying send a subliminal message to your husband/significant other. If you catch our drift. Of course, you can also buy the unscented variety.

If you’re still not convinced you should use baby wipes, you can always buy some Almay Eye Makeup Remover pads here.

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Over the weekend, I met with Bulgarian beauty Adriana for a shoot. She was super cool and open to colors, and when she picked out a pair of blue polka-dot lashes from my Halloween collection, I decided to go all the way with a glitter fuchsia lip and tropical colors on the eyes. Definitely not your everyday look but fun and great for the summer nonetheless. Thanks so much for the good time Adriana! =)


Face
• Make Up For Ever HD Invisible Cover Foundation in #127
• Cinema Secrets Concealer Palette in Kit #1
• Ruby Kisses HD Set N’Forget HD Setting Powder in #01
• MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in Petticoat
• MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in Stereo Rose
• Smashbox Step-by-step Contour Kit

Eyes
• NARS Pro Prime Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base
• Yaby Eyeshadow in Olivetini
• Yaby Eyeshadow in Emerald Sea
• Yaby Eyeshadow in Butterfly Blue
• MAC Eyeshadow in Pollen
• Kiss Me Heroine Make Smooth Liquid Eyeliner
• Blue polka-dot fake lashes
• CoverGirl Natureluxe Mousse Mascara in Very Black
• Urban Decay Eyeshadow in Buck on eyebrows

Lips
• CoverGirl LipPerfection Liner in #230 Radiant
• OCC Lip Tar in Anime
• OCC Glitter in Beige

Want to be a model for my next shoot? E-mail me!

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