Posts Tagged ‘eyes’

Runway Beauty: Spanish Red Lips at Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2015

September 23rd, 2014

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To complement the Spanish influences as seen at Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2015, Pat McGrath created a beauty look that consisted of soft plump lips, as if they were colored by the juice of fresh cherries and wide elongated eyes.

Red lips at Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2015
To prep the models for makeup, McGrath used Aurealux Mask, a new fabric mask from the Dolce & Gabbana skincare line, on the models. Next, she created the perfect canvas with The Primer: Sheer Radiance Make Up Base, Perfect Luminous Liquid Foundation and Perfect Luminous Concealer. Then, she lightly contoured the face with The Blush: Luminous Cheek Color in Sole and Peach on the apples of the cheeks. The look was set with a light dusting of the Pressed Powder across the nose, forehead and chin and finished with Glow Illuminating Powder in Shimmer and Eva.

The eyes were gently outlined to widen and keep the simplicity. McGrath applied the bronze shades of the Smooth Eyeshadow Quad in Desert all over the eyelid and upward towards the brow line to further enhance the eyes. The upper and bottom lash lines were defined by applying the Crayon Intense Eyeliner in Chocolate. Along with the top of the upper lash line, a defined line of Intense Liquid Eyeliner in Black Intense was softly drawn to widen and perfect the eye. On the upper lashes, layers of Secret Eyes Mascara in Black were applied for a defined lash look and a lengthening finish. The brows were naturally sculpted with the Brow Liner in Chestnut, using the nib of the pencil to create additional definition. Broad strokes from the wide part of the nib were then used to fill the color outwards to the end of the brow achieving a natural youthfulness to the face.

To create the red lips, McGrath applied Classic Cream Lipstick in shades of Ultra and Amethyst on the outer parts of the lips and added Dolce Matte Lipstick in Dolce Desire on cupids bow and at the center of the lips, achieving a rich plump affect.

Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2015 backstage makeup

Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2015 runway beauty

Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2015 makeup look

Images: Courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana and Michele Morosi /

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Runway Beauty: Undone Elegance at Naeem Khan Spring/Summer 2015

September 10th, 2014

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At Naeem Khan Spring/Summer 2015, models rocked an undone beauty in fresh skin and glossy eyes paired with a stained lip and creamy pink nails.

Naeem Khan Spring/Summer 2015 runway beauty
Makeup: NARS Director of Global Artistry James Boehmer
Nails: Julie Kandalec for essie

“Naeem’s inspiration this season was actress Lauren Bacall. We liked the idea of this classic, old Hollywood Naeem girl but a bit more ‘undone’. Fresh skin, glossy eyes and a stained lip is where we landed.” explained Boehmer.

Skin was evened out with Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer and Radiant Creamy Concealer and set with Soft Velvet Loose Powder (new for Spring 2015). Cheeks were lightly sculpted with the right side of Fervor Dual Intensity Blush (new for Spring 2015).

On the eyes, Cappadoce Matte Multiple and Coconut Grove Matte Eyeshadow were used to add depth (Mambo Eyeliner and Bengali Matte Eyeshadow were used on models with darker skintones). Lashes were coated with Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara and Triple X Lip Gloss was dabbed on the eyelid for a glossy sheen. Finally, lips were painted with Ingrid Audacious Lipstick using a brush for a stained look.

Both hands and feet received essie fiji, a creamy pale pink shade, for an elegant but not too glamorous touch.

Undone beauty at Naeem Khan Spring/Summer 2015

Naeem Khan Spring/Summer 2015 backstage makeup by NARS

Backstage beauty at Naeem Khan Spring/Summer 2015

Creamy light pink manicure by Essie at Naeem Khan Spring/Summer 2015

Images: Courtesy of NARS Cosmetics and essie.

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MAC Autumn/Winter 2014 Runway Trend Report

August 20th, 2014

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For Autumn/Winter 2014, makeup has become something of a beautiful paradox: it’s about artistry to achieve something that looks essentially un-cosmetic (thanks to ever more sophisticated and subtle makeup formulations and applications). Masking and morphing feels irrelevant this season; a quiet alchemy of product and technique that nonchalantly amplifies what is unique in the face is the new stealth wealth of makeup. “The new luxury is in individuality,” confirms Gordon Espinet.

There is a confident subtlety in all these beauty directions. “There is no absolute formula to how makeup has to look to appear modern now,” says Lyne Desnoyers. “There is a freedom to experiment and a confidence to break away from conventional means of constructing beauty.” Hence nuances of texture (transparent lightness is more important than heavy opacity this season), combined with unpredictable colors (“off” colour is distinctly “on” trend) and non-prescriptive placements form the new technical vocabulary that makes these trends look distinctly fresh and “now”.

Trend #1: Streamlined
Eyes are indisputably the feature to focus on for the season ahead; framed with an architectural liner, these eyes add a strength to the face that sits somewhere between glamour and grunge (but, vitally, looks like neither of the two). “Tomboy” and “tough around the eyes” were common descriptors of these lean, horizontally focused shapes: complemented by similarly present brows, they lend a beautiful edge to the face that is not anything angry or extravagant. Liner now is an ornament, but not an excessive one. What breathes new life into liner for AW14 is as much to do with the entire treatment of the face as the eyes in isolation. Nothing in the métier of these faces feels labored.

Trend #2: Off Color
A drab-inflected palette is being used in a beautifully paradoxical manner this season: grungy color that creates the effect of luminosity and life in the face. These decayed shades prove that color absolutely does not have to correct or complement in order to be beautiful. Their inherent grey-ness and extreme transparency takes them away from looking like evident pigments; they add mood, not makeup, to the face.

Trend #3: On Reflection
Just as textural contrasts informed the fashion collections, reflective accents are a dominant beauty refrain for AW14. Punctuations of shine against matte provide an endless repertoire of plays on light, from neutral metallics (predominantly gold with forays into copper, pewter and silver) through to literal gloss. So whilst reflection this season is not about conceptual minimalism, it is a designed minimalism: thoughtfully applied with consideration on specific placement and weight of shine (from sheer balm to high vinyl), this is a luxurious, but not glamorous, approach to shaping the face.

Trend #4: Unprocessed
How about we don’t talk about “natural” makeup any more? Let’s call it “real” instead. Because that’s what a barer-faced look is really speaking about now. The individual. Applying the tag “natural makeup” to any face created in a palette of skin-akin tones is an outmoded concept; “real” is not 3D-perfect skin that has had all the contours and highlights artificially added back in. Yes, all makeup is, by definition, not natural, but minimal makeup in AW14 is about the purely democratic idea of accentuating reality, of reveling in normality. Neither masculine, nor flirtatiously pretty, neither glam, nor grunge. This is, quite simply, how a strong, self-assured, cool, relevant woman today probably wants to look: like she has not tried too hard.

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Runway Beauty: Jungle Beauty at Mara Hoffman Resort 2015

July 23rd, 2014

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Amazonian jungle beauty served as inspiration at Mara Hoffman Resort 2015. As a result, Celebrity Makeup Artist and Global Artistic Director for Stila Cosmetics Sarah Lucero created tropical green eyes and rainforest dewy skin. “Mara wanted a full brow and a pop of emerald in the corner of the eyes – Brooke shields meets blue lagoon!” explained Sarah.

Skin was perfected, dewy and radiant with Stila Stay All Day Foundation. Using a Beauty Blender, Sarah pressed Stila Stay All Day 10-in-1 HD Bronzing Beauty Balm and Sun Gel into the cheeks and added Stila Convertible Color in Camellia with other shades for warmth.

For a pop of color on the eyes, Sarah added Stila Liquid Eyeliner in Emerald on the outer corners of the bottom lashline. Next, she curled models’ lashes and applied Stila Mile High Lashes Mascara. Brows were groomed with Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Brow Color and Tinted Brow Gel.

To finish, she added a combination of Stila Passionfruit and Cherry Crush Lip and Cheek Stain on the lips.

Stila Cosmetics is available at Sephora.

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Get Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s Makeup Look at 2014 Vanity Fair Oscar Party

March 3rd, 2014

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For the 2014 Vanity Fair Oscar Party last night, makeup artist Monika Blunder created an “effortless, Parisian-chic” bronzy look on Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. Get the 411 on the look after the jump!

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s Makeup at 2014 Vanity Fair Oscar Party
First, Blunder prepped the skin with Laura Mercier Oil-Free Primer. Then, using her fingers, she applied Laura Mercier Smooth Finish Flawless Fluide (launching Fall 2014) all over her face and Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage to cover any imperfections. Next, Blunder blended Laura Mercier Secret Concealer #2 under Huntington-Whiteley’s eyes with Laura Mercier Finishing Eye Brush. She then set everything with Laura Mercier Loose Setting Powder in Translucent.

To create the gorgeous glow you see on Rosie, Blunder applied Laura Mercier Matte Radiance Baked Powder #3 with Laura Mercier Bronzer Brush before adding a touch of Laura Mercier Shimmer Bloc in Golden Mosaic.

On Rosie’s eyes, Blunder started with Laura Mercier Eye Basics in Buff all over the eyelid, followed by a veil of Sateen Eye Colour in Baroque on top and Matte Eye Colour in Café au Lait for definition. She then lined her Rosie’s eyes using Laura Mercier Kohl Eye Pencil in Stormy Grey in an outward motion to create a cat eye and softened the line with Laura Mercier Smudge Brush. To intensify the smoky-eye effect, Blunder applied Laura Mercier Caviar Stick Eye Colour in Cocoa with Laura Mercier Pony Tail Brush and highlighted the inner corners with Laura Mercier Baked Eye Colour in Ballet Pink. Next, Blunder added Laura Mercier Matte Eye Colour in Café au Lait along the lower lashline, curled the lashes and
applied generous coats of Laura Mercier Long Lash Mascara. Finally, she groomed Rosie’s brows using Laura Mercier Brow Grooming Brush and added extra definition with Laura Mercier Eye Brow Pencil in Ash Blonde.

Finishing the look, Blunder lined Rosie’s lips with Laura Mercier Lip Pencil in Baby Lips and topped Laura Mercier Crème Smooth Lip Colour in Royal Orchid for a “bold pout”.

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