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MAC Pro Masterclass Eras Reinterpreted by Melissa Gibson

April 25th, 2012

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To brush up on my makeup skills, I attended MAC Pro Masterclass: Eras Reinterpreted by Senior Artist Melissa Gibson at Woodfield Mall over the weekend. During the two-hour session, Melissa showed us how to redefine two of my favorite looks, a ’20s smoky eye and ’60s Twiggy eye, with the use of new techniques and updated products. Keep reading to see a breakdown of the looks and more beauty tips by the pro herself!

Look #1: 20s Smoky Eye
For the first demo, Melissa drew inspiration from the ’20s and created a black smoky eye and red lip on the gorgeous Angela (remember her from Chicago Fashion Week and MAC Pro Sculpting The Face Masterclass?!)

She first prepped Angela’s skin by massaging Prep + Prime Moisture Infusion and Studio Moisture Fix into the skin and added a layer of Lip Conditioner onto the lips with a brush. Then, Melissa buffed one of her must-have foundations, Studio Fix Fluid SPF 15, onto the skin with 188 Small Duo Fibre Face Brush in a small, circular motion. She blended Mineralize Concealer onto the undereye area and eyelid (Melissa prefers a concealer in place of a primer) with 217 Blending Brush and skipped powder entirely.

Instead of the rounded, overly tweezed brow you see in the ’20s, Melissa decided to work with Angela’s natural brow shape. She started by brushing the brow upwards with 204 Lash Brush. Then, using different eyeshadows, she filled in Angela’s brow with 266 Small Angle Brush, focusing more on the bottom. Next, using 239 Eye Shader Brush, Melissa patted Blacktrack Fluidline onto the eyelid and softened the edges with 217 Blending Brush. She then added a dark grey shadow, Print, onto the crease with the middle of 234 Split Fibre Eye Blending Brush and patted more Blacktrack onto the eyelid and Carbon Eyeshadow onto the outer corner and crease for intensity. On the lower eye, Melissa added Blacktrack with the 239 brush before blending carefully with a Q-tip. She then rimmed the upper and lower waterlines with Smolder Eye Kohl and blended again with the 239 brush and Q-tip.

To add her own flare to the smoky eye, Melissa blended a warm antique gold shadow, Woodwinked, onto the inner half of the lid for a fade-in effect. She also dabbed the color in the inner and outer corners of the lower eye. Then, she cleaned up the eye area with the leftover concealer from the 217 brush before curling Angela’s lashes and added several coats of False Lashes Mascara on both top and bottom.

To finish, Melissa contoured and highlighted with different Mineralize Skinfinishes using 187 Duo Fibre Brush and created a gorgeous red lip with Brick Lip Pencil, Russian Red Lipstick and a touch of Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder/Pressed to set.

MAC Senior Artist Melissa Gibson doing a 20s smoky eye makeup demo

Look #2: 60s Twiggy Eye
For the second look, Melissa decided to bring a twist to the big lashes and drawn-on crease from the ’60s on model Brea.

To start, Melissa buffed Strobe Cream and Prep + Prime Skin onto Brea’s face with 188 Small Duo Fibre Face Brush. Next, she applied a really thin layer of Studio Sculpt Foundation with 217 Blending Brush and blended it using the 188 Small Duo Fibre Face Brush and her fingers. She also added Studio Sculpt Concealer with 217 Blending Brush as needed.

For the eyes, Melissa again started by running 204 Lash Brush over the brows. She then filled in sparse areas with Fling Eye Brows and extended the line, keeping it thin for a statement that is not too over-the-top. Using 266 Small Angle Brush, Melissa drew a line above Brea’s crease with Blitz & Glitz Fluidline. She then darkened it by patting a grey shadow, Scene, on top of the line with the top part of 239 Eye Shader Brush. To make Brea’s eyes look even bigger, Melissa lined the lower eye a little lower than the lashline with Blitz & Glitz and drew on lower lashes on the outer corner of the lower eye with 263 Small Angle Brush. She then highlighted the brow bone, eyelid and inner corner with a touch of Vanilla Eyeshadow, curled the lashes, applied mascara on top and bottom and finished with 33 Lash.

With the eyes being the focus of the look, Melissa kept Brea’s cheeks and lips with a soft wash of pink. Using 224 Tapered Blending Brush, Melissa contoured Brea’s cheekbones with two different shades of Mineralize Skinfinish. Next, she added one of my favorite blushes, Mineralize Blush in Dainty, onto the apples and brought the color closer to the nose for a flush. Then, she created the most gorgeous highlight by placing Filament Eyeshadow (a platinum silver), on the top of Brea’s cheekbones and completed the look with Hue Lipstick painted on the lips.

MAC Senior Artist Melissa Gibson doing a 60s Twiggy makeup demo
60s Twiggy Makeup look by Melissa Gibson

More Makeup Tips From Melissa
* Melissa’s top four MAC foundations? Studio Fix Fluid SPF 15, Studio Sculpt (she uses this on EVERYONE), Face & Body and Studio Moisture Tint SPF 15.

* Mineralize Skinfinishes are Melissa’s favorites for coutouring and highlighting and to keep them safe during travel, she places shelf liners inside her MAC Pro Palettes for an extra layer of of protection.

* As you can see from the demos, Melissa is a fan of using shadow brushes for everything, including foundation and concealer application. Her must-haves are “the ones with the white hair” (217, 219, 222, 239) and 224.

* To get emollient-based products out of her brushes, Melissa swears by dish soap and shampoo but she always uses a conditioner afterwards to keep them from shedding.

* When using fake lashes with a smoky eye, Melissa likes to cover the band of the lashes with Blacktrack Fluidline before she puts them on. To help your fake lashes last longer so you can reuse them, she recommends not applying mascara over them and keeping them safe in the case after each use – exactly what I do to take care of my babies!

A couple more pictures!

Makeup products used during MAC Pro Eras Reinterpreted Masterclass
Products used in the makeup demos

Makeup For Life Phyllis Li with MAC Senior Artist Melissa Gibson during MAC Pro Masterclass
Me with the awesome Melissa

Overall, I enjoyed the class a lot. The looks Melissa created were gorgeous and it was really refreshing to see some of my favorite MAC brushes being used in ways I have never imagined (who would have thought of blending lip liner with the 219?!) If you are a Pro member, I highly suggest you check out macpro.com for info on upcoming classes in your area.

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Tags: Brea brush eye lashes lower Melissa onto She Studio

Bridal Beauty at Marchesa Bridal Spring 2013 Runway

April 25th, 2012

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With bridal season coming up, take a cue from Talia Shobrook, lead makeup artist for the Marchesa Bridal Spring 2013 runway show, on how to create a look that is whimsical, effervescent and totally wearable.

Bridal Beauty at Marchesa Bridal Spring 2013 Runway

Face
“Flawless skin with a fresh and dewy finish was the foundation of the look”, said Shobrook. First, she mixed Laura Mercier Mega-Moisturizer Crème SPF 15 with Laura Mercier Foundation Primer Radiance to add a subtle glow to the skin. She then covered under eye circles with Laura Mercier Secret Concealer and covered any spots or redness with Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage. Next, she applied Laura Mercier Silk Crème Foundation to the face. Lastly, she used Laura Mercier Invisible Loose Setting Powder in the T-zone, for control shine, leaving the rest of the skin dewy and fresh.

Eyes
To highlight the eye and add to the allure that a bride’s sparkling eyes have on her wedding day, Talia mixed Laura Mercier Sateen Eye Colours Stellar and Primrose and applied them on the lid from lashline to the crease. Next, she softly contoured the crease with Laura Mercier Matte Eye Colour in Fresco. Using Laura Mercier Baked Eye Colour in Ballet Pink, she dipped Laura Mercier Fine Point Eye Liner Brush into water and swirled around the Eye Colour to pick up the product, then drew a line across the lashline, with a slight flick at the outer corner. The eyeliner should be thin and bright. On the lower lashline, she used Laura Mercier Flat Eye Liner Brush to apply Laura Mercier Matte Eye Colour in Truffle just at the lashline and blended slightly to soften. Lastly, she finished with a layer of Laura Mercier Long Lash Mascara and another layer of Laura Mercier Full Blown Volume Lash Building Mascara to the lashes in the center of the eye.

Lips and Cheeks
“By using the same product on the eyes and lips, we allow the fresh-faced bride to only have to carry one product for touch-ups. The creamy formula adds a lovely natural flush to the face,” Shobrook concluded.

On the cheeks, Talia applied Laura Mercier Crème Smooth Lip Colour in Mango (launching September 2012) to the apples of the cheeks and blended to give a natural flush in the face. The result is a creamy smooth natural cheek color. The look was finished with the same color blended onto the lips as well.

Images: Courtesy of Laura Mercier.

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Tags: applied blended colour eye Face lashline Laura look Mercier She skin

NARS Makeup Removing Water Review

April 23rd, 2012

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NARS Makeup Removing Water

NARS Makeup Removing Water

NARS Makeup Removing Water ($28.00 for 6.7 fl. oz.) is touted as a “soap-free, oil-free, and alcohol-free water that removes face makeup and tones the skin.” It’s designed as a gentle formula that will remove makeup without requiring rubbing while hydrating skin.

This is a makeup remover that is best described as gentle, because that’s exactly what it is, but it’s gentle in every way–it’s not at all stinging, burning, or irritating against the skin, even around the eyes, but it doesn’t effectively remove all your makeup, though it specifically says “face makeup” and not “eye makeup.” Just so we’re clear: if you wear eye makeup, don’t expect this to do much in the way of removal. All it ever seems to accomplish is smudging everything around so I end up looking like a mutant. I absolutely would not use this for anything that says “long-wearing” on the label, including face products.

If you want it to remove light eye makeup, I recommend gently pressing the soaked cotton pad against the eye for 15-20 seconds before gently swiping the product away. You’ll get some, perhaps not all, of it removed this way. Since NARS only mentions face makeup, it seems like you would use something else for your eye makeup. It’s packaged in a clear plastic bottle with a flip-top that has a small hole so only a little comes out as you need it.

I’d like to think of this as a remover for gentle makeup; lightweight, natural, soft makeup. However you want to term it, it’s good for lighter makeup days. For me, it seems to remove face makeup as well as most facial cleansers are able to. It is very lightweight, doesn’t feel greasy or oily against the skin, and it leaves no trace of residue once it’s wiped away with a cotton pad. It really does have the consistency and feel of water. There’s no stickiness, dried, or tightened skin after use either. I need at least two cotton rounds in order to remove about 90% of face makeup.

It doesn’t remove makeup completely, so I feel like I need to use a cleanser afterward or yet another cotton pad. Instead, the way I found this product to be most useful was after using a facial cleanser, so it was only responsible for removing the last bits of makeup the cleanser missed. You can definitely use it before your cleanser of choice as well–I just like the visual of seeing the cotton pad just picking up stray makeup and knowing that my face is clean. It also means that I can better control how much product or how many cotton pads I use since this doesn’t eliminate a cleanser.

It’s a superfluous product in my night time regimen; it seems to be an extra step rather than a time-saver. It’s more like a toner in my routine–I don’t trust it to remove all my makeup, but I do trust it to remove the last vestiges of makeup my cleanser may have left behind (especially around my hairline and the edges, which I don’t push the cleanser around as much so it doesn’t get into my hair!). And if I’m going to use NARS as my toner, I’d rather use their Hydrating Freshening Toner, which is one of my favorites, and for me, hydrates a little better than the remover does. You can use this like you would a toner, however, so if you do include one in your regular routine, this could take its place.

If you’re a fan of micellar water removers, then you may enjoy this recently launched remover by NARS, which has all the earmarks of one (though I didn’t see NARS officially billing it as such). There are quite a few on the market internationally and a couple in the U.S., but this year has shown major progress with more U.S. brands launching their own versions. Bottom line: this will remove some but not every type of makeup, particularly longer-wearing products and heavier textured products, but it’s not designed to do much more than it does do, so it’s pretty good from that standpoint.

Ingredients

Water, Butylene Glycol, Peg/Ppg-35/40 Dimethyl Ether, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium Edta, Cucumis Sativus [Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract], Chamomilla Recutita [Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract], Sodium Hyaluronate.

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Tags: all cleanser cotton doesn eye Face makeup nars remove skin use

Celebrity Hair & Makeup: Shailene Woodley at 2012 Oscars

March 6th, 2012

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Need hair and makeup ideas to go with a white dress? Take a cue from Shailene Woodley, who totally nailed the look at the 84th Annual Academy Awards with a Valentino Couture gown, sultry coppery shadow and chic chignon.

Shailene Woodley hair and makeup at 2012 Oscars
Makeup
“Today is a special day for Shailene and so I wanted to use a little more makeup than what she typically wears,” says makeup artist Stephen Sollitto working for Hourglass Cosmetics. “Her look is about luminous skin, defined eyes and a sophisticated palette of coppers and bronzes. She looked exquisite yet still young, fresh and fashionable.”

Stephen began by prepping Shailene’s skin with Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer to create a smooth canvas for makeup and ensure a flawless finish with real longevity. He followed with Hourglass Illusion Tinted Moisturizer in Shell, which imbues skin with luminosity, and Hidden Corrective Concealer in Fair, an undetectable cover-up.

To add warmth, he contoured Shailene’s cheekbones with Hourglass Superficial Waterproof Bronzer, a silky powder that withstands high humidity, sweeping the product to her temples, hair line, nose and chin. He then applied a dusty rose blush and finished with the highlighter from Hourglass Illume Crème-to-Powder Bronzer Duo in Bronze Light for a gorgeous glow.

Stephen lined her eyes with Hourglass Calligraphy Liquid Eye Liner in Cognac, a rich brown shade. Before adding eye shadow, Stephen applied Hourglass Film Noir Full Spectrum Mascara to gauge the darkness of her eyes. He also swept Hourglass Film Noir Lash Lacquer at the roots of the lashes for drama, thickness and inky black sheen. Stephen then covered the entire lid of the eye with the cream shimmer shade of Hourglass Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo in Suede to reflect light. Last, he applied the copper shade from Hourglass Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo in Gypsy for a dose of dramatic color.

Stephen lined the lips with Hourglass Trace Lip Liner in Bare, and followed with Hourglass Prodigy Hydrating Lip Gloss in Eden for a peachy beige sheen.

Hair
Hair stylist Campbell McAuley gave Shailene a ’70s style textured chignon with a Moroccan twist to mirror the textures of her dress.

1. Starting with wet hair, apply Matrix Total Results Amplify Wonder Boost Root Lifter to give the base of the hair volume.

2. Blowdry hair with a round brush to smooth the texture.

3. Set hair in Velcro rollers for one hour.

4. Remove rollers, brush out curls and worked Matrix Total Results Sleek Silk Wonder Smoothing Oil from roots to end for shine.

5. Gather all hair into a textured ponytail at the crown of the head.

6. Twist small sections of the ponytail and wrap them up to the base of the hair to make a round shape.

7. Half way through, wrap remaining sections around the round shape to give it a criss-cross texture.

8. Finish with Matrix Design Pulse Hard Lock Hairspray to hold the style in place.

Nails
For Shailene’s nails, Celebrity Manicurist Nettie Davis used a mix of essie’s Ballet Slippers and Au Natural to create a light, neutral manicure. “I wanted to create a simple nail to complement Shailene’s mod 70s style dress. I created a neutral beige mixing Ballet Slippers and Au Natural,” stated Davis.

Image Source: Celebutopia.

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Tags: applied create eye Hair Hourglass makeup Matrix round Shailene Stephen style

What is your makeup removal routine?

January 21st, 2012

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What is your makeup removal routine? What do you remove first? What products do you use?

If it’s heavier eye makeup, I typically use a cleansing oil (which one simply depends on what I have on hand or what I’m testing, but my default is shu uemura’s). If it’s a lot of long-wearing eye makeup, I will also use a separate eye makeup remover after I’ve done my face with a product like Lancome Bi-Facil. For lighter makeup, a lot of cleansers breakdown the majority of the product, and then I’ll use a toner afterward to ensure the rest is off (as well as around the edges of my face).