Posts Tagged ‘contour’

Runway Beauty: Gold Eye + Red Lips at Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2013

September 14th, 2012

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Working for MAC Cosmetics, makeup artist Diane Kendal created a Helmut Newton inspired look with one of my favorite combos – red lips and a touch of gold on the eye – at the Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2013 show.

Gold Eye + Red Lips at Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2013
Face
* Taupe Shape Powder Blush (available Spring/Summer 2013) — blended under cheekbones to contour.
* Poised Powder Blush (available Spring/Summer 2013) — blended over cheeks to add strength and colour.
* Silver Dusk Iridescent Loose Powder — applied above cheekbones to highlight.

Eyes
* Golden Lemon Pigment — blended over the eyelids for a yellow-golden highlight.
* Taupe Shape Powder Blush (available Spring/Summer 2013) — blended through the crease to contour.
* M·A·C PRO Black Creme Liner — applied through the upper lashes to define and elongate eyes.
* Haute & Naughty Too Black Lash — applied through lashes to define and perfect.
* Dirty Blonde and Deep Dark Brunette Brow Fluidline (available Spring/Summer 2013) — defines and sculpts the brow.

Lips
* Cherry and Vino Lip Pencils — alternately applied and mixed together to define and contour lips.
* Lady At Play and Lush Life Mineralize Rich Lipsticks (available Spring/Summer 2013) — blended with M·A·C PRO Process Magenta Lipmix and applied over the entire lip.
* Neo-Orange Pigment — sets the lip.

Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2013 backstage makeup by MAC Cosmetics

Images: Courtesy of MAC.

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How-to: Blushing & Highlighting

January 29th, 2012

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By Victoria, Theatre Makeup Artist

Victoria is a 19-year old college sophomore who attends school in Massachusetts for Engineering, but she’s an avid Theater Makeup Artist and has worked on a variety of shows, from dance shows (think intense, flamboyant glitter) to periodic musicals. She aims to combine her “nerdy” passions with her artistic ones: to overanalyze the mathematics of reshaping the face, learn the science of why a product works better or worse. She’s a romantic dreamer who enjoys re-imagining herself in a soap opera, pretending one day a prince is going to come riding in on a dragon and take her away. Until then, she’s planning to use her makeup brushes and colors to force her friends to be the stars of her imaginary fairy tale.


How-to: Blushing & Highlighting

As a follow-up to my post on contouring, I wanted to discuss how to finish up your look with blush and highlighter. Blush and highlighter really bring life to the face, giving you that sought-after glow. Highlighter has a secondary benefit of really bringing contrast to the shadows, which brings out more of that lovely bone structure.

When do you need blush, highlight, and contour? For me, the answer to blush is always, but what about contour and highlight? If you’re of a darker skintone, like NC/W 45+, skip the contour and stick only with highlight. Contour colours unfortunately rarely run too dark, and you risk the color looking muddy on the face. On the other hand, if you’re lighter skinned, like NC15 and up, be very careful with balance. A dramatic contour and highlight can really sculpt out your features but beware of the risk of looking skeletal.

What You Need

A good directional brush, with a smaller head, or a head the size of the apple of your cheek. The same brush for contouring works perfectly here, so options like the MAC 165, MAC 109, or e.l.f. Blush Brush work perfectly. As for a brush with the head the size of your apple of your cheek, options like the MAC 119 (for smaller apples) or 120 (for rounder apples) are great.

Your favorite highlighter. For more of a glowy effect, choose shimmery highlighters, like Dior’s Amber Diamond, Elf Studio Shimmer Palette, or MAC Cream Colour Base in Pearl/Hush. These will give you beautiful glowy finish and really bring your face to life. For a more of dramatic effect, to contrast with the contour, stick with a matte flesh-toned shade that is a step or two lighter than your natural skintone. For this, I turn to powder foundations, or back to my trusty MAC Shape powders, which contain a hint of shimmer (but not too much!). You can definitely layer a shimmer powder over a matte lighter powder, but for natural looks I would avoid this, as it tends to read a bit ashy.

What shades should you choose for highlighter? For a natural highlight, its important to match your undertone with the product. Warmer beauties will find products with a golden or yellow undertone to be really flattering, like Dior Amber Diamond, NARS Albatross, or MAC CCB in Hush. Cooler beauties will find pinker or even lavender toned highlights work great. Look for products like Dior Rose Diamond, NARS Miss Liberty, or MAC CCB in Pearl.

Your favorite blusher. If you’re going with a shimmery highlighter, avoid a blush with too much pearl or frost unless you want to compete with a Twilight vampire for attention!

If we refer back to my original diagram for contouring, it makes finding blusher and highlighter placement is easy!  I like to highlight after contouring; generally, highlighting anywhere where you didn’t contour will help deepen the shadows.

Make a line parallel to the contour line on the top of your cheekbone, and along that line is where the highlight should go. Placing the highlight closer towards your ears will widen your face. Highlighting closer to the apple of the cheek will cause the apples to appear rounder. Whatever you choose, the length of your highlight line should not exceed the length of your contour line; stop highlighting wherever your contour stops.  Then, highlight under the browbone to make the browbone pop, and extend out that highlight to join with your cheekbone highlight. This will help deepen and define the socket, as well as define your cheekbones.

Applying blush last will help to gently blend everything together, but don’t overdo it or else your lines will become muddy and unclear! Blush placement helps reinforce highlighter placement, so apply your blush along a parallel line in between the contour and highlight lines. Don’t smile and apply blush! On many face shapes, this will actually cause the blush placement to be too low. Instead, get some extra lift by applying blush higher along that line. However, if you have a wider face, or you want to soften the cheekbones, apply blush lower along the line, as it will give you an instantly slimmer face.


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How-to: Contouring

December 3rd, 2011

Celebrity Makeup News and Blogs:

By Victoria, Theatre Makeup Artist

Victoria is a 19-year old college sophomore who attends school in Massachusetts for Engineering, but she’s an avid Theater Makeup Artist and has worked on a variety of shows, from dance shows (think intense, flamboyant glitter) to periodic musicals. She aims to combine her “nerdy” passions with her artistic ones: to overanalyze the mathematics of reshaping the face, learn the science of why a product works better or worse. She’s a romantic dreamer who enjoys re-imagining herself in a soap opera, pretending one day a prince is going to come riding in on a dragon and take her away. Until then, she’s planning to use her makeup brushes and colors to force her friends to be the stars of her imaginary fairy tale.


How-to: Contouring

I remember the first time I looked at my pictures from a dance performance:  my face was completely bleached out, and I was so embarrassed I didn’t want to show them to anyone! At the next show, an older girl with beautiful orange stripes down the sides of her face came over and lovingly gave me some help. After a friend asked me if that performance was “Lion King” themed, I knew I needed a change. Since then, I’ve joined the battle against the monster we theatre makeup artists have to fight: giving life and dimension to a face that is flattened by unforgiving lights.

My weapon of choice is contouring. Highlighting and contouring is the art of changing the face. For theatre, we may contour for two reasons: one, because theatre lights bleach out all the shadows and dimension of the face, or two, to make the face look like a different ethnicity entirely. Today, I’m going to concentrate on the former: on giving yourself beautiful cheekbones.

One thing that I really want to highlight (ha!) in this post is that having beautiful cheekbones is not just about the cheekbones! It’s about how things look in relation to each other; how far the cheekbones are positioned from the eyes or the shape of your jawline. A relatively wider set jaw can mask any high cheekbones. Just shade along the jawline to soften and recess it a bit, and your cheekbones will pop out naturally.

Cheekbones generally start a finger or two widths away from the edge of the eye; if yours don’t, you might want to consider shading under the outside corner of the eye to push the cheekbone down further. Some cheekbones are naturally quite prominent and maybe your goal is to diminish them a bit! Avoid highlighter and place your blush further down. Before you start, analyze your own facial structure and compare it to the look you’re trying to achieve.

Find out what you’ll need and how to contour!

Tools Needed

A good blending, directional brush with a smaller head. My favourite brushes for contouring include the MAC 165 (discontinued), MAC 109 ($34.00), ELF Blush Brush ($3.00), Real Techniques Pointed Foundation Brush ($7.99), and Sonia Kashuk Pointed Foundation Brush ($12.39). All of these have two important features: the head is small, so I can really place colour where I want it; the bristles are soft and pliable while still being dense, which makes blending out colour a dream. Important note! If you’re using the MAC 109, use only the edge to place colour, and then the whole brush head to blend.

A matte, contour shade (definitely avoid shimmer!). It’s really important to mimic the face in shadow. For daytime and under softer lighting, matte bronzers can be a viable option – a couple of my favourites include the Hourglass Sunset Illume Crème-to-Powder Bronzer Duo ($40.00) and the ELF Contouring Blush and Bronzing Palette ($3.00).  Use these with caution; bronzers tend to contain redness and shimmer in them which give a beautiful tan but don’t look like natural shadows. For heavier duty contouring, look for a taupe shade, a grey-casted brown, or use a foundation three shades darker than your natural skin tone. These will mimic natural darkness by creating shadows on the face. My favourite contouring shades are the MAC Sculpting powders ($16.00 each).  There’s a wide variety of excellent quality powders for different skin tones. Unfortunately, they are PRO-only, but everyone can shop at a PRO store or place a phone order at any PRO store.

How-to

I personally never use the fishy face to contour under the cheekbone – every time I do that, my contour ends up too low! Instead, measure a straight line from the top of your ear to the outside corner of your lip. That’s the general path your contour should follow. Use your fingers to feel the bottom edge of your cheekbone and find the lowest point of the cheekbone. The contour should generally fade into nothingness by here. Imagine drawing a long triangle, with the hypotenuse being that contour line and the short edge being very thin, not more than a centimeter and along the side of your face. You can move this imaginary triangle up and down on the face to adjust whatever features you’d like to adjust. That’s where the majority of colour should be concentrated and not err too far from.

  • A simple variation to make the cheeks appear rounder and younger is to take the contour and curl it around the bottom edge in a u.
  • For a chiseled, defined look, take the contour and run it vertically downwards to the chin. This works great on men, or for gaunter looks!

To finish off this cheekbone contour, work on the temple as well. You can usually feel where the temple is; that’s usually where most of my headaches seem to be concentrated at! Draw another pair of imaginary lines from the corners of the eyes to the corners of the nose (outer to outer, inner to inner). The temple contour colour stays within these lines.

  • For extra definition and to really enhance and deepen your eyes, follow the bottom line with a small brush to place some of that colour underneath the outside edge of the eye. This will even help minimize puffy under eye circles. This outer line is also a great guideline to follow to make a cat eyed shape liner or outer-v colour.

PS: A fun fact – did you know a 2009 Princeton study said that high cheekbones look more trustworthy?





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Please note that this article is not written by celebritymakeup.org

Smashbox Step-by-step Contour Kit Review, Photos and Swatches

August 4th, 2011

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Here is a full review of my beloved Smashbox Step-by-step Contour Kit I used for the How To Contour Your Nose Makeup Tutorial.

Smashbox Step-by-step Contour Palette
Smashbox Step-by-step Contour Palette
The 2-piece kit comes with a Contour Palette in Smashbox’s signature matte packaging, along with a red angled contour brush and a cheat sheet with detailed instructions on where/how to apply the product.

Inside the Contour Palette, you will find a huge mirror and a sticker with instructions on how to apply the product on one side, and 3 colors – a cool-toned brown for Contour, a warm tan for Bronze and an ivory for Highlight – on the other.

The powders are smooth, blendable and leave behind a semi-matte yet natural-looking finish that wears well without fading. They also give decent pigmentation and show up nicely on my NC30 skin. However, I do wish the Highlight color could be a teeny bit lighter and more shimmery.


Swatches of Smashbox Contour, Bronze and Highlight powders

The biggest surprise for me was the brush. Though flimsy looking, its bristles are soft and actually deposit color while blending everything nicely. In addition, the angle fits perfectly along my cheekbones, making contouring really easy.

Lo and behold the magic of the Smashbox Step-by-step Contour Kit!


Before and after using Smashbox Step-by-step Contour Kit

Overall, Smashbox Step-by-step Contour Kit is a great and easy-to-use tool to highlight and contour features. Highly recommended for those with light to medium skintones.

Overall Rating:

Smashbox Step-by-step Contour Kit is available at Beauty.com, Nordstrom and Ulta for $45.

Disclosure: The product in this entry was provided by the manufacturer for consideration. Please see my Disclaimer for more information on my posting policy.

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Celebrity Inspired Makeup – Megan Fox By Eve Pearl

August 9th, 2010

Eve shows us how to create a Megan Fox look! EVE PEARL Products Used: (www.EvePearl.com) **ALWAYS CHECK OUR WEBSITE FOR OUR LATEST COUPON CODE!!** PRODUCTS USED: (www.EvePearl.com) •Priming Moisturizer – ($28) •HD Foundation Medium – ($54) •Smudge Proof Black Pearl Liquid Liner – ($26) •Diva Eye Pallet – ($40) •Au Naturale Eye Pallet – ($40) •Ultimate Lashes 101 – ($6) •Black Lash Glue – ($6) •Glamour Lash Mascara – ($22) •Kohl Eye Pencil w Smudger Combo in Blackout – ($18) •Salmon Concealer Medium – ($35) •Neutral Pressed Powder – ($32) •Creme Blush Rosy – ($22) •Lip Gloss in See Thru/Wet Kisses – ($28) •Lip Pencil in “Cosmo” – ($18) EVE PEARL BRUSHES USED: (www.EvePearl.com) •Foundation Brush ($25) •Mini Oval Concealer Brush ($18) •All Over Eye Shadow Brush – ($20) •Eyeliner/Eyebrow Brush – ($15) •Mini Crease Brush (Natural) – ($20) •Mixer/Blender Eyeshadow Brush – ($20) •Mini Smudger (Synthetic) – ($15) •Fan Brush – ($20)